Types of Sewing Needles
Choosing the correct type of needle for your industrial sewing machine can be a daunting task. Different makes and models of machines require specific needles, and the kind of fabric or application will determine which type of needle is suitable for the job. Without proper knowledge and experience, determining which needle you need for your machine, you could end up wasting time and money.
To clear the air and help point you in the right direction when it comes to correct needle selection, we’ve created this handy guide to industrial sewing machine needles. Let’s take a look at the complex world of sewing machine needles.
The Anatomy of A Needle
On the surface, industrial sewing needles may look similar – and in a sense they are, as although size, thickness and point shape can vary widely, the general anatomy remains the same.
Butt – The bevelled top end of the needle.
Shank – Usually grooved, threaded or round on industrial and commercial machines, it is inserted into the machine along with the butt.
Shoulder – The slope between the shank and the shaft or blade.
Blade – The body of the needle (sometimes called the shaft) below the shank. The diameter of the blade determines the size of the needle.
Groove – A slit above the needle’s eye. The groove helps to reduce friction, cradling the thread and helping to guide it to the eye.
Scarf – An indentation in the needle above the eye, allowing the thread to be grabbed by the bobbin hook under the throat plate, creating the stitch.
Point – The base of the needle. This varies in shape and sharpness depending on the type of application the needle is for. The point of the needle is what allows it to thread and pass through the material.
The size, width and shape of all the various parts of the needle’s anatomy contribute to determining the type of needle.
Types of Sewing Machine Needles for Every Stitch Type
Sewing machine needles may all look similar at first glance, but they are designed with different features to accommodate various fabrics, threads, and sewing techniques. The right needle helps create even stitches, prevents skipped stitches, and avoids fabric damage. Let’s now discuss the most common types of sewing machine needles and their applications.
Universal Needles
Universal needles are the most versatile type of sewing machine needles, making them a staple in every sewist’s toolkit. They feature a slightly rounded point, allowing them to work well on both woven and knit fabrics. This design ensures smooth stitching without damaging the fabric threads. These are available in various sizes, typically ranging from 70/10 to 100/16, making them suitable for lightweight to medium-weight fabrics. However, for specific fabrics like heavy denim or delicate silk, a more specialised needle may yield better results.Ballpoint Needless
These are specifically designed for knit fabrics such as jersey and interlock. Their rounded tips slide between the fabric threads instead of piercing them, preventing snags or runs. This makes them ideal for stretchy or loosely woven materials. If a ballpoint needle skips stitches on highly elastic fabrics like Spandex or Lycra, switching to a stretch needle is recommended. Ballpoint needles are commonly available in sizes like 70/10 to 90/14.Stretch Needles
These are designed for extremely elastic materials like Lycra or Spandex. In order to avoid skipped stitches, they have a deeper scarf (the depression above the eye) and a somewhat less rounded tip than ballpoint needles. Consistent stitching is guaranteed by its design, even on difficult materials. Stretch needles are a popular option for swimwear and activity wear projects because they are usually offered in sizes 75/11 and 90/14.Microtex (Sharp) Needles
Microtex needles, also known as sharp needles, are designed for precision sewing on tightly woven fabrics like silk, microfiber, and synthetic leather. Their acute point allows for clean penetration and crisp stitches without damaging the fabric. These needles are perfect for heirloom sewing or creating fine topstitching details. They come in sizes ranging from 60/8 to 90/14 and are essential for projects requiring meticulous attention to detail.Denim (Jeans) Needles
These are designed to work with thick textiles like canvas, upholstery, and denim. They can manage thick layers without bending or breaking, thanks to their deep scarf, sharp point, and sturdy shaft. This design prevents the fabric from being pushed into the needle plate hole during stitching. Denim needles are essential for tasks with heavy materials and come in sizes ranging from 90/14 to 110/18.Leather Needles
These are made specifically to stitch both strong imitation leather and real leather. They ensure neat stitch holes without ripping because of their wedge-shaped cutting point, which slices through the material instead of piercing it. However, unless the leather is extremely thick, they are not appropriate for synthetic leather. These are typically come in sizes ranging from 90/14 to 120/19.Embroidery Needles
Specifically designed embroidery needles are used for decorative sewing using metallic or rayon threads. In order to lower friction and stop thread breakage during high-speed embroidery, they have a bigger eye and a unique coating. These needles, which come in sizes 75/11 and 90/14, guarantee flawless sewing on delicate materials like organza or tulle.Quilting Needles
These are made to easily handle several layers of batting and cloth. While producing consistent stitches across thick layers, their tapering point guards against fabric damage. They are perfect for finishing quilting projects and constructing quilt tops because of these capabilities. Typically, quilting needles come in sizes like 75/11 and 90/14.Twin and Triple Needles
Twin and triple needles allow you to stitch parallel rows at the same time since they have two or three needles fastened to a single shank. They are frequently used for hemming or ornamental stitching on stretch materials, such as knits. To accommodate varied applications, these specialty needles are available in a range of diameters and widths. Your sewing tasks can be greatly improved by using the different types of sewing needles with different fabrics. There is a certain type of needle made to provide the best results, regardless of whether you are working with hefty materials, elastic knits, or delicate fabrics. You may improve your sewing experience, prevent needless frustration, and consistently produce professional-quality stitches by being aware of its different kinds.The Needle System
Every class of industrial sewing machine uses different sizes and types of needles. A group of needles that belong to that specific sewing machine class is called the needle system. Attributes such as the length and thickness of a needle will determine which needle system it belongs to. However, there are so many different types of needle available, it is not always possible to identify which system a needle belongs to simply by looking at it or measuring it.
Needle systems are denoted using codes that usually consist of an assortment of numbers and letters. There are various needle systems, and they do not all necessarily follow the same. Some popular stylings for needle systems include:
- Two groups of numbers with an X separating (e.g. 135 x 17)
- Two groups of numbers and letters with an X separating them (e.g. DV X 59)
- A group of numbers followed by a letter (e.g. 1000H)
- A series of numbers (e.g. 134-35)
It is worth keeping in mind that the numbers used within the needle system do not necessarily correlate with the physical dimensions of the needle. The instruction manual or technical sheet is the best place to determine which needle system is compatible with your machine. If you don’t have either of those to hand, check the machine nameplate or any spare needle packaging you have, or speak to an expert in industrial sewing machines.
Needle Sizing
When talking about needle sizing, we’re referring to the thickness/gauge of the needle. In general, the larger the needle size, the thicker the needle will be. This, in turn, affects the size of the hole created by the needle and the thickness of the thread that the needle can accommodate. Larger needle sizes will result in larger holes and be able to use thicker thread. What size of needle you require will depend on the material you’re working with and the thread you’re using to sew.
There are three main unit systems used to determine needle size – Metric, UK and US, so depending on where you are in the world will determine which system you’re using. There are many helpful conversion charts for commercial sewing machine needles online.
Needle Points
Once you’ve determined which needle system your industrial sewing machine is compatible with, and you’ve figured out what size of needle is right for your application, you need to think about needle points. Different fabrics require different points, use the wrong points, and you’ll end up with less than desirable results. Let’s take a look at some of the most popular needle points and the materials they are suited for:
Round Point – often referred to as ‘normal’ or ‘standard point. These are suitable for a variety of light to medium-weight fabrics.
Ball Point – these needles have a small, round ball on the tip that slides through the fabric rather than piercing. They come in a variety of sizes. Light ball points are suitable for lightweight woven fabrics like t-shirts. Medium ball points are good for loosely woven elastic products and underwear, and heavy ball points are used for thick, coarse fabrics and garments such as sweatshirts and cardigans.
Leather Needles – sometimes referred to as Glover’s needles, these have a sharp triangular point, allowing them to piece and pass through rigid materials like leather.
Twin Needles – used to create parallel lines of decorative stitching.
There are many more styles of needles available. We hope this article has shed some light on the complex world of industrial sewing needles. If you’re in doubt as to which needles you should be using for your application, or you need advice on any aspect of commercial sewing, contact us today; we’ll be happy to help.
Stocks Sewing Machines offers a wide range of Embroidery Machine Needles. Click the link to explore https://www.stocks.co.uk/shop/embroidery-needles.html